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At
For Pet's Sake, we carry several lines of premium, all
natural, holistic dog and cat foods. We know that these
are the best foods for your pet, short of feeding them a
raw, ancestrally formulated diet right from your
kitchen. But what does all that mean? What is wrong
with the pet foods you find at the grocery store, or
even commercial pet stores?
Most
commercial pet foods are made up mostly of grain
fragments (the left overs from the human food industry),
with a small amount of meat thrown in and the whole
thing coated with recycled used (and frequently
carcinogenic) fats to make it palatable to our pets.
I'm fairly certain, in most cases, these are things we’d
refuse to feed our pets if we saw them in their raw
state. But why does the industry use these types
ingredients at all? The answer is simple – it is far
cheaper than feeding meat. But it has nothing
whatsoever to do with good or species-appropriate
nutrition for our pets. Neither cats nor dogs have any
evolved need for carbohydrates in their diet at all, and
these are readily converted to fat.
Now,
I suppose the bigger question is, how do I know a good
quality food when I see one? What do those labels
really mean? Well, lets run though a few common
ingredients found in pet foods and what they are. We'll
start with what you want to avoid. If your pet's food
contains any of these ingredients, consider switching...
now.
Corn
Gluten
An
inexpensive by-product of human food processing which
offers very little nutritional value and serves mainly
to bind food together. It has poor nutritional value and
quality.
Wheat Gluten
The
tough, viscid nitrogenous substance remaining when wheat
is washed to remove the starch. An inexpensive
byproduct of human food processing with almost no
nutritional value left, serves mostly as a binder.
Powdered Cellulose (sometimes just Cellulose)
Dried wood is the most common source for cellulose (I'm
not kidding.). It is cleaned, processed into a fine
powder and used to add bulk and consistency to cheap pet
foods. I would consider this ingredient appropriate for
termites, but certainly not for dogs or cats.
Peanut Hulls
The
outer hull of the peanut shell. No nutritional value
whatsoever, and are used exclusively as a cheap filler
ingredient. Possibility of pesticide residues being
present.
Soybean Mill Run
Composed of soybean hulls and such bean meats that
adhere to the hulls which results from normal milling
operations in the production of dehulled soybean meal.
An inexpensive byproduct of human food processing,
commonly referred to as 'floor sweepings'. An
inexpensive filler with no real nutritional value.
Animal Digest
A
cooked-down broth made from unspecified parts of
unspecified animals. The animals used can be obtained
from any source, so there is no control over quality or
contamination. Any kind of animal can be included: any
animal that is dead, diseased, disabled, or dying prior
to slaughter, goats, pigs, horses, rats, misc. roadkill,
animals euthanized at shelters, restaurant and
supermarket refuse and so on.
BHA
Butylated Hydroxysanisole - a white, waxy phenolic
antioxidant, C11H16O2, used to preserve fats and oils,
especially in foods. Banned from human use in many
countries but still permitted in the US. Possible human
carcinogen, apparently carcinogenic in animal
experiments. The oxidative characteristics and/or
metabolites of BHA and BHT may contribute to
carcinogenicity or tumorigenicity.
BHT
Butylated Hydroxytoluene - a crystalline phenolic
antioxidant, C15H24O, used to preserve fats and oils,
especially in foods. Banned from human use in many
countries but still permitted in the US. Possible human
carcinogen, apparently carcinogenic in animal
experiments. The oxidative characteristics and/or
metabolites of BHA and BHT may contribute to
carcinogenicity or tumorigenicity.
Ethoxyquin
6-ethoxy-1,2-dihydro-2,2,4-trimethylquinoline.
Antioxidant; also a post-harvest dip to prevent scald on
apples and pears. Originally developed by Monsanto as a
stabilizer for rubber, Ethoxyquin has also been used as
a pesticide for fruit and a color preservative for
spices, and later for animal feed. The original FDA
permit for use as stabilizer in animal feed limited use
to two years and did not include pet food, but it falls
under the same legal category. It has never been proven
to be safe for the lifespan of a companion animal. It
has been linked to thyroid, kidney, reproductive and
immune related illnesses as well as cancer, but so far
no conclusive, reliable research results either for the
safety of this product or against it have not been
obtained. Monsanto conducted research years ago, but
results were so inconclusive due to unprofessional
conduct and documentation that the FDA demanded another
study. There are currently several studies underway to
determine whether Ethoxyquin is safe or not, and until
those studies are completed, pet food suppliers may
continue to use Ethoxyquin. This is how things stand
after about 6 years, and no new details have emerged so
far.
Chicken By-Product
Chicken by-products are much less expensive and less
digestible than the chicken muscle meat. The ingredients
of each batch can vary drastically in ingredients
(heads, feet, bones etc.) as well as quality, thus the
nutritional value is also not consistent. Don't forget
that byproducts consist of any parts of the animal OTHER
than meat. If there is any use for any part of the
animal that brings more profit than selling it as
"byproduct", rest assured it will appear in such a
product rather than in the "byproduct" dumpster.
Sugar
Can
include sucrose, cane sugar, caramel, corn syrup and
others. Sugar or sweetener is an absolutely unnecessary
ingredient in pet foods, added to make the product more
attractive. Continuous intake can promote hypoglycemia,
obesity, nervousness, cataracts, tooth decay, arthritis
and allergies. Pets also get addicted to foods that
contain sugars, so it can be a tough piece of work to
make them eat something healthier.
Now,
that is just a SMALL selection of the things put into
commerical pet foods. You are free to investigate
further on your own.
But,
what should you look for on a label? First, and most
importantly, is to examine the ingredient list itself.
Pet food ingredients are listed by weight. This means
that the first ingredient is what is most prevalent in
the food. Obviously, you want it to be meat, and not
corn or some other grain fragment. But lets delve a bit
deeper.
What
is the difference between "Chicken" (or "Beef" or
"Lamb") and "Chicken Meal"? This is important. Chicken
(when seen on an ingredient list) is inclusive of the
natural water in the meat. This makes it heavy. Why
does that matter? Well, once this water is removed, as
it must be to create a dehydrated product, the
ingredient will weigh around 20% of its wet weight,
which would in reality place it much lower on the list.
What
about Chicken Meal? Well, it is the same as Chicken,
except all the water is removed before processing
it. This makes it weigh much less. When it is seen at
the top of an ingredient list, you can be assured that
there is plenty of real meat in your pets food.
Confused? Don't be. Just look at your first few
ingredients, and make sure they are a named meat source,
not a by-product. Then look for good quality
ingredients. Fruits and vegetables are wonderful, as
are eggs, cheese, flaxseed, and kelp. Good quality
grains in moderation are fine too. These include
oatmeal, brown rice, barley and millet. But, if you
wouldn't eat it, you don't know how to say it or you
don't know what it is, you probably shouldn't feed it to
your pet. Just remember that vitamins and minerals are
listed too, and I can't usually pronounce those, but
they are a vital part of your pets diet.
Still perplexed? Come and see us in the store and we'll
help you understand what is in your pet's food, and help
you find a new one if you'd like to switch. You can
also visit
www.dogfoodanalysis.com.
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